John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in the British footwear industry.
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